Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 63
A steady little face-climb that heads right from Doughnuts and Duvets and then up the wall to the first roof and break.
Generally easy 6a+, or 6a with a hard bit in the middle.
I liked the route, and it definately deserves a least one star.
My favourite of the day. Found the middle bit hard but i'm quite short. Rest was pleasant. Worth a star.
There has just got to be a misprint in the 2005 guidebook hasn't there? This is 6a+ not 5+.
It used to be, but the whole crag leaned back about 5 degrees when to top half of "Donuts for Duvets" fell down...
Granted the middle bit may now be easier, but the last two bolts now seem to be the crux instead; high 6a perhaps or easy 6a+, but still not a 5+ in my opinion. Footwork would be too technical for a 5+ climber.
6a+. Someone is either cruel, very strong or a bit of a prankster!
Tough at 5+, but not desperate give it a go. Keep your cool and watch your feet on the top moves for a deserved tick.
Tried this as a "warmup route" (I'm topped out up to F6a+ outdoors) - this was the hardest of the day - I just couldn't reach the 2nd last bolt and had to rope down from there. Definitely harder than "Megs got Lukemia" or "Cinema Paradiso" (F6a).
Penultimate bolt was probably the crux. Much easier once I'd found the great little flowstone ridge out left, made for a good side-pull to get the feet up and then it's all pretty much jugs.
Enjoyable, technical climb BUT don't expect a 5+!
Nice face climbing in contrast to the tufa pinching on other routes hereabouts. But it sure ain't 5+! The moves to clip the last bolt before the lower-off are definitely worth 6a.
This has been upgraded to 6a in the CC guide, and I led it yesterday clean, having rested on it a few years ago expecting a "warm-up" 5+ and finding myself floundering. Hard 5+ / easy 6a, delicate face climbing.