La paroi noire
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1) 3, 2) 4, 3) 4+, 4) 4. Climb the low-relief rib and grooves above. Glue-in bolts mark the line.
The polish doesn't detract from a fine route with great positions and some lovely deep pockets. A small rack may be appreciated by the timid. Possible to ab the line on a single 70m, though we also saw people walking off to the left.
To approach from Morgiou: follow path to Abri Cotiere then double back left above the beach, following the yellow dotted markers. After a short chain section head up the scree gully to the base of the cliff.
christopher brooke - 02/Oct/11
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