Monsoon Malabar Top 50

2 Stars
 6a

Adjacent Routes
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A great outing with an easy start and an intricate finish up the striking, angular arete in the centre of this area. Move right around the top roof. Atmospheric and exposed positions.
FA. Gorden Jenkin, Mike Robertson 22.6.1997

USER COMMENTS

Very hard for its current grade, scarey too but excellent.Sees a lot of failures by 5+ climbers!
Al Evans - 08/May/01

THE ROUTE HAS A REACHY MOVE FOR THE SHORT (6A) JUST BEFORE THE TOP.
ANDREW MACKINTOSH - 24/Nov/01

Very hard in the grade, felt harder than many 6a+'s
Jim Houghton - 23/Jul/02

Dwarves (like me!)can use a side pull on the left to get to the top break. Great route.
Bruce Kerr - 19/Feb/04

Great route, easy start gives way to an intricate finish on the arete, graded right at 5+ though, always holds when you need them, atmospheric positions!!!
Alex - 18/Jul/04

Fantastic. One of the best routes i've done on Portland. tough for 5+ - delicate footwork required at the top as well as a lot of commitment!
Wilbur - 03/May/05

Really enjoyed this, and am quite chuffed that gets 6a. I didn't quite make it, had to use the side pull to get to the ledge even though I'm not that short, but couldn't find my feet to traverse to the bolt, and dropped off twice before giving up! Will definately be back...
Sarah_Clough - 21/Jun/05

I notice that the current miniguide has this as a 5+. All I can say is that I found it rather similar in difficulty to a couple of nearby 6a's and a fair bit harder than other Portland 5+'s. Notably, no-one has voted this 5+ so far! The last bolt before the LO's is nasty to get to - you need to get to a high and not great handhold with little for your feet.
gbuchanan - 28/Jun/05

Agree with your comments about grade - it actually says 6A now on the online database though.. the penultimate bolt, on the other hand, is easy to clip from the ledge although the move to the ledge isn't easy...
Wilbur - 05/Jul/05

Think this should have stayed at 5+ myself as you would have to be a bit of a dwarf not to reach the jug in the break from a good foothold.
Richard Horn - 05/Jul/05

i think it's exactly on the cusp of 5+ and 6A ;o). It should get 6A though just for the exciting rock-over on the spike!! Don't forget there's lots of delicate balancy moves upto the break and even when i reached it i had to semi-pop to the spike!
Wilbur - 05/Jul/05

I went back... and flashed it, yippee! Much easier when you already know most of the moves. Richard - I'm not a dwarf (5'7") and can only just reach the ledge by using the sidepull on the left, the tricky bit is having enough strength to haul up a bit and traverse across to the bolt on minimal feet!
Sarah_Clough - 18/Jul/05

when I wrote my comment it only got 5, 6a seems far more accurate.
al - 24/Aug/05

I think its been rightly upgraded and so did Gerry, but we are both bit on the short side.
Al Evans - 02/Jan/07

I thought the crux was the section just below the break under the overhang when all the footholds seem to evaporate. There was a nice undercut out left that helped me slap the break, but nice'n freaky. The rock-over onto the spike and then gliding up and round to the right for the lower-off is awesome.
Andy R - 15/Mar/08

Lovely positions on the arete and a great warm up for Pregnant Pause!
John Parker - 05/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 90
    hard 6a+ 0 of 24
    6a+ 0 of 24
    easy 6a+ 0 of 24
    hard 6a 0 of 24
    6a 15 of 24
    easy 6a 4 of 24
    hard 5+ 5 of 24
    5+ 0 of 24
    easy 5+ 0 of 24
    3 Stars 14 of 66
    2 Stars 41 of 66
    1 Star 9 of 66
    0 Stars 0 of 66
    Bag of ..... 2 of 66

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