Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 19
Power through the centre of the bulges to the rest on Randy's Wall then traverse left to climb close to the arete.
Can't imagine why this gets 5b. Shadow wall seemed about the same at VS 4c.
Much harder than routes like The Crease and a grade harder and more serious than Randy's Wall. I thought mid to bottom end E1.
who are you kidding: VS?? Yes, the 5b move is off the ground, but it's followed by a sequence of 5a (steep pulls followed by rockover on poor hand holds) ending in a completely bullsh*t rest and runners you wouldn't hang your cat off. Fairly hard at HVS, given that Alter Crack, Quien Sabe, Fern Crack etc are meant to be hard at VS.
Sure the start is hard but the rest is okay, unless perhaps you're pumped from the start? I'm pretty sure I solo'd this in my trainers last time I was up there, horses for courses I guess.
Come to think about it when I first led it a few years on a very cold day it felt desperate, may be conditions and how well you're climbing on the day make a big difference, sorry about the earlier comment.
Not sure why we gave this 5b. The move off the ground didn't seem any harder than anything else on the route. About the same as Randy's wall overall and both are candidates for VS really.