Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 85
One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland. Scramble easily to a high ledge to start, but gear up first. Climb the black wall to a series of incredible stuck on flakes, follow these to the top.
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One of the best bits of flowstone on Portland, only its inaccessibility prevents it from having queues on it. The hardest bits are leaving the belay ledge and pinching up the tufa pipe at the top; have faith, there are jugs above!
Its not really that hard to get to, and well worth it!
I like the 'inaccessibility' - it makes a change, and means that you won't be waiting long to get on it. In fact, it's easy to get up to, and there's a hanging belay, so you can really feel like you're on a multi-pitch...The move to establish oneself on the face is quite tricky, and the positions on the tufa at the top, are superb. Do check this one out.
You HAVE to do this route - it's a bit of an effort to get to but well worth it. Was chuffed with the onsight after contemplating failure on the crux! You can also then do Monsoon Malabar and Pregnant Pause for a quality day's climbing with no-one about...
I'd say it's probably more straightforward approaching this from Blacknor South. It may still be worth wearing trousers as there are plenty of nettles and brambles about. Great climb on good quality flowstone.
Fantastic route, glad i read the comments here first! I was also feeling defeated at the crux but had faith and got the flash! VERY worthwhile if you like flowstone that isn't polished (yet).
Quality route with the crux in a great position.
Very nice route and it is hardly that inaccessible!
Yes, very good route, 100% flowstone - approach is hardly like the one to Cloggy is it?
brilliant route - very atmospheric and nice moves
I found this route quite hard. It is a great route with amazing flowstone but the start off the ledge and the crux about 2/3 up were really hard. I'm no super climber but I don't normally struggle with 6a. Go and do it though because its a great route and the path to the area could do with a bit more traffic!