Gaze of the Gorgon

2 Stars
Pumpy
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Niagara Wall < Dizzy up the Girl  |  Sniffin' Glue > Athenian Tactics >>


A major crack-line that is both strenuous and sustained.
FA. Tim Dunsby 3.10.1992

USER COMMENTS

The bolts seemed very spaced on this route.
tom rainbow - 07/May/01

the crack is absolutely minging with bugs if even slightly damp.
richardh - 02/Jul/02

Don't be put off by crap first section. The crack is superb. Would be pushing E3 on gear, cos I'd get pumped putting so much in.
John Alcock - 05/Jul/02

I agree the gear is a bit spaced in places, and its hard for the grade. This route would be much better described as being in the Portland Heights area. Its bizzare that its described in the Pregnant Pause area as its almost impossible to get to it from that area, yet its just to the left of Portland Heights.
Al Evans - 17/Mar/03

Did this for the second time on a cold January day, which probably made it feel harder, but I would still say top end 6a+ compared with others of a similar grade. Fantastic crack climb though. Almost a pity its bolted as you could lace it with gear and would make an excellent trad climb.
Pete - 17/Jan/05

easy peasy. never felt hard at all. and the bolts never felt spaced to me although compared to other routes on the island they actually are.
paulr - 09/Oct/06

Sniffin' Glue 7a+ to the right feels like an eliminate, shame bolts aren't further left, it could have defineately avoided Gaze.
La Mont - 20/Apr/09

This route is currently in a dangerous state. The winter frosts have made the rock at the start extremely friable- the second bolt is in shattered blocks and the first bolt(and the rock around it) have gone
Rob Kennard - 08/Jul/10

Seconded. Danger of dying on this route! Avoid.
Jus - 27/Jun/11

The start has been re-cleaned and re-bolted. The second bolt came out with two blows of the hammer...
Dorset Bold Fund - 07/Dec/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 38
    hard 6b 0 of 21
    6b 0 of 21
    easy 6b 4 of 21
    hard 6a+ 5 of 21
    6a+ 10 of 21
    easy 6a+ 2 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 21
    6a 0 of 21
    easy 6a 0 of 21
    3 Stars 2 of 17
    2 Stars 12 of 17
    1 Star 1 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 2 of 17

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