Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 40
A much-travelled favourite. Start below a wide crack on the right of an overhang at 4m. Climb up past the overhang, and then pursue a line leftwards to a long groove just right of the arete. Follow this to an overhang and finish via some difficult final moves.
The start is offputting but the rock's ok if handled with the usual care. The top more than makes up for it.
Good route, but a fall while clipping the 2nd bolt would lead to a ground crunch and the last move is way harder if you're short.
I found the route amazingly nice. Pretty impressive as well. The most difficult bit is, in my opinion, the slightly overhanging wall around the 3/4 bolt.
Awesome route. Did it in the dark a few summers ago. Was still bloody hot, so we went for a swim.
Excellent route. Be careful of the topo. Near the top follow the obvious line of bolts up and slightly right of the small overhang. The topo in the old guide implies climbing over the left hand side of the overhang.
Following on from tbertenshaw's comment, the line hasn't changed much in the new guide either, and the bolts are still to the right of the overhang.
The difficulties don't really start until you are established on the face proper. Nowhere is it overly difficult - just steady and sustained pleasure that keeps on going right til the end. Excellent climb. By the way, what's the line of bolts on the arete?
the route on the left is 'the chronicles of vladimir' 6c+
Fun route with maybe a little too many good rests. Watch out for baby bird after 2nd bolt, puked on my arm!
Not difficult, but potentially, dangeour start (nothing new, in Portland), then, the climbing begins..