Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 46
The long crack is a good route. Start at a boulder on the path. Climb the lower wall to below a long flake-crack. Climb the accommodating crack to a tricky bulge at its end. Finish up a perplexing groove in the headwall.
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The top felt English 6a to me. The route is a bit disjointed, the rest is much easier.
Not as good as Driven Like the Snow. Pleasent F6b to the last move which must be hard english 5c. I found myself clipping the lower off from a mono press!
The move described by Ben sounds rather familiar. The hardest move by far is clipping the belay. I didn't do the "extended tick"; I doubt many people do.
I agree with Ben, not as good as Driven Like the Snow which is worth three stars. Thought the grade was fair though, 5c rather than 6a.
Did this again and I am even more convinced its overated compared to Driven Like The Snow which is far more balanced and better quality climbing. This would be a good 6a+ if it wasnt for the out of character top move.
By the way drop the crap about the 'extended tick', its easier to grab the top before clipping the lower off in any case?
If you want your partner to offer you lots of sexual favours,lead the route first and then put a long sling on the belay to take the sting out of the crux.
... now then John, I'll tell Lorne what you've been typing here.
The route is very nice, although it is true that it is not much more than 6a+ except for the last move. Personally, I couldn't do the last move onsight, mainly because I found it quite scary.
A good climb, I really enjoyed this route. The flake was great fun, however this climb does owe its grade to its thought provoking finish.
well i like it its the sort of route which
Its all been said before, but hey. Great route, good climbing up to the last bolt, then a very hard move... might have done it badly, but it felt as hard as any of the moves on To Wish the Impossible.
Top move isnt so bad when you go for it, but I guess it is just a bit of a shock when you have been hauling up a juggy layback for 15m, and I spent about 10 mins contemplating the move. Didnt occur to me to try and clip the belay from the small holds when there was a juggy looking top only a reach away.
Agree 100% with Al Evans - would be a 2* 6a+ were it not for the sting in the tail, which makes it rather unbalanced. Good move at the top though.
Im not sure if I've even climbed a 6b+ anywhere before. It was a really nice climb, my kinda stuff. What other climbs are similar to this one that any of you would recommend?