Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
An eliminate line. Start at a bolt-belay above broken ground, which is gained by abseil. Alternatively, climb up the initial broken wall of routes either side and traverse to the low belay.</br>Take the steep prow on small pockets and edges to a slabby finish, without straying across to Portland Heights.
Nicked from Nic!!
A badly prepared route, with dodgey rock on easy ground up to the first bolt at 30 feet and ill considered bolt placements thereafter. I don't have a lot of sympathy for this climber having his route stolen!
That's because it is meant to be abbed into (hence double bolt belay at the start of the climbing). Not sure what your problem with the bolts is, as there is one about every four feet. Had there been any "missing" ones I would have found this out when I redpointed it and placed them, but for obvious reasons I'm not going to bother now. Would you like me to place some for the walk from the car for you next?
..and now I recall, when I bolted this the rock is quite "odd" in that area, and the placements reflect that - i.e. they are placed in sound rock whereever that might be, not necessarily the ideal places for clipping. Comments like this are irritating - whilst you may not have any sympathy you might at least think twice about the logistics of bolting a route before condemning it in such a cavalier fashion.
Okay Nic, get yourself on the sharp end and have a go. No abbing in or top rope practice, just climb it as the rest of us would. Bear this in mind before you leave the good pocket; if you don't make the next clip you'll hit the ledge. Regarding bolts placed from the car park to the crag, I think that would probably be a more positive use of your time and energy (I could do with the handrail and you could do with the drilling practice).