Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 83
The photogenic arete. Climb steep ground on pockets to an easing midway up the arete. Move up and step left to finish up the crack pulling back right to the lower-off. Climbing directly up the right-hand side of the arete is a thin and fingery 6b+ variation finish.
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6a if you cheat using LHS of the arete at the top.
staying on the right hand side there's a tricky top move, reach for the little stone sticking out and it's alright but desparate without it!
Right of the arete at the top felt hard for 6a+, easier on the left as Don says. Overall a nice route
The crack round the left of the arete is actually part of an OLD trad route called 'Jutland' or something. It really is cheating if you use it.
Cheating or not, what a great climb (using the flake on the left at the top!!). Certainly one to push your grade on and get your mate to take a photo...
Forgot the photo, too busy with the tricky top section. Great climb though, high in the grade. Missed the little stone, would have helped.
I climbed it right on the arete on the top, using the little stone sticking out on the right and two small holds on the left of the arete. I could find no way completely on the right of the arete, unless holding the little stone and pulling only on it... Very hard for a 6a+!! Great, anyway.
Great climb, but desperate for the grade if you stay right on the top.
Seemed right for the grade using the two small flakes just to the left of the arete approaching the top. The first is almost invisible due to the pattern of the rock. No need to go as far as the left as the crack though.
contender for the hardest 6a+ in the world if you stay right.
Nice moves, not 6a+ staying on the centre at the top.
finishing pure as per guidebook to right of arete is impossible at 6a+
Can dyno for the wide ledge on top of the lower off block to miss out the difficult top moves if you fancy it ... be prepared to plummet!!
My god this is hard if you do it straight up the face. harder than any 6B i've ever tried...
great route is more like 6b by staying right and not using left arete (only 1 move though) well worth doing I climbed it on 7/6/05
Can't comment on how hard the top section is, as I couldn't even get to the third bolt!
did return to roissy and toe the line and this route had the hardest finish (in fact i fell off twice before i finally clipped the bolts). it is not 6a+ staying right. have no idea what the grade is but it is nails. maybe it was cos it was first route of the day who knows but definately stiff for the grade.
Why would you not use the arete? You can easily reach the lower off with your right hand with your left hand round the arete, so you are hardly off route by using it.
in that case maybe the route description should be changed and it should be a 6a. Otherwise a bit of a pointless eliminate..
Glad everyone else thinks that the 6a+ finish is nails. Kicked my ass anyway, and I was using it as warm-up. Mind you, I couldn't feel my fingers at the time....finished using the arete, which is 6a.
A great climb with solid holds all the way up to that last section, but boy, am I relieved to see others found the direct route at the top tough for the grade. I kept poking these tiny little crimpy things and hopping from foot to foot convinced there was going to be some magic point of balance that would suddenly unlock an easy sequence. In the end I went left on the arete: much more manageable.
yea like most used the left hand arete to get the last clip but was a seriously good route really enjoyed! if you get stuck between the 2nd and 3rd bolt get those feet up and just stick ur hand to the left slightly there is a really nice pocket though if u miss it there is plenty of other stuff the get ur self to the 3rd bolt and i would say if you make the third then u hav done the hard stuff and the rest is cruzin'
It's a committing pull round the overhang to get to the 3rd bolt, then I'd give it 6a+ at the top, using the arete to finish. I couldn't see how to do it without using the arete, there being nothing but minute, razor sharp holds. To me it seems pointless to describe the route without using the arete, as that's the natural line. I would list the 'direct finish' simply as a harder variation.
Agree with previous comment (though we did do it together..!!). Committing pull over the first bulge and painfull holds on the arete above