Le Cranium Cassé

1 Stars
Technical
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Six Good Biceps < Losing My Sad Tomato  |  Fallen Slab Arete > Fallen Slab >>


The groove left of the arete is now adequately bolted, but it still has a sizeable fall potential.
FA. Damian Cook 27.5.1995

USER COMMENTS

Watch out! a friend of mine took a substantial fall off of the crux. It's a bit run out, very sharp and fingery and the fall is onto the top of the lower bulge.
Ben - 22/Mar/00

Good technical climbing, especially on the crux but it has real ankle breaking potential. Of course I didnt read the guidebook comment!
Al Evans - 27/Mar/03

"undoubtedly done before".
What is the point of this comment unless there is some evidence? This is almost as bad as the throwaway "Previous top-rope problem"
steve taylor - 27/Mar/03

You get the feeling D.Cook was running out of bolts! Tough crux, high in the grade, made harder by the height of the hard moves above the bolts.
Jim H - 27/May/03

Very badly bolted
Goi - 07/Jul/03

Very nice climb, mainly for the environment so near to the sea. Only, a little scary but well protected. Attention to the pain in the fingers!
Enrico Gili - 07/Aug/03

you would NOT want to fall off the crux.
virgil - 08/Mar/04

Charecter building stuff and no broken ankles to date!
Damian Cook - 08/Mar/04

Crux moves are painful. The climbing above is much more pleasant.
Richard Horn - 09/Mar/04

Nice route, gets your heart beating ... not often you get scared on a sports climb ... BRILLIANT!!
FredMead - 29/Aug/05

whipped off this in imperfect conditions (greasy). agree with other comments!
Wilbur - 23/Oct/06

Brilliant route. Long run out but didn't hurt the fingers in my book! Annoying lower off. Kept swinging to the right when trying to de-gear! mates found it funny tho
Brad Reed - 24/Mar/08

Poor bolting in my book, unnecessary risk of broken ankles or worse.
Brian Wilkinson - 23/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 60
    hard 6b 0 of 33
    6b 0 of 33
    easy 6b 3 of 33
    hard 6a+ 20 of 33
    6a+ 9 of 33
    easy 6a+ 1 of 33
    hard 6a 0 of 33
    6a 0 of 33
    easy 6a 0 of 33
    3 Stars 0 of 27
    2 Stars 3 of 27
    1 Star 16 of 27
    0 Stars 7 of 27
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