Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
Pull onto the slab as for Suburban Dave, then follow the right-hand of the bolted lines on pockets and good friction.
reasonable climb, well under graded.
It definitely seemed to me that the guide book has got the two routes 'Suburban Dave' and 'Mystical Gill' the wrong way round. As the harder route is one in from the right hand edge of the slab and not the right hand route as indicated in the guide. Mystical Gill or the route indicated by line 3 on the topo is still excellent and worth the star.
I am sure these routes are in the correct order. I suspect that Mystical Gill is easier than 4, and hence possibly easier than Suburban Dave. If you check the voting on Suburban Dave, most people are happy with it at grade 3. Pete wouldn’t have made a mistake with the route names since one of them is his, however a mistake with the grades is entirely possible.
That sounds like a sensible explanation!
Climbing is ok but the rock itself is a tad boring. Better off at fallen slab.
Nice pockets and good friction down by the sea
wouldn't say this one was "pumpy", pretty nice footgrips all the way.
Nice climbing for beginners like me. This seems to be the best of the four bolted routes on this slab. They're all good climbs but very similar to one another.
A straight forward pull up onto the slab, then simply walk up on a nice grippy surface. Great route for beginners, not really worth it if you've climbed before, though.