Cliché Upon Cliché

1 Stars

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A hard start and a hard finish. Move left to the lower-off.
FA. Martin Crocker 7.5.1989


The crux is actually part of a long run-out at the top. Once you hit the jug, keep climbing and don't look down!
Ben - 15/Mar/00

It's not that run-out. The lower wall is also a bit tricky.
Alan James - 15/Mar/00

Oh yes it is!! Seriously though, the first time I did it it felt horribly run out to get to the belay, as I was pumped stupid. The second time it felt like a path...
Nic - 16/Mar/00

For those of you that remember what they are, there's a Friend 2 placement in the middle of the run-out to the belay.
Chris Shorter - 03/Sep/00

Where is the belay? I did not find it yesterday, and I looked hard.
wladoo - 30/Mar/03

Lower wall is just a b*****d to get going on (do a warm up first) upper crux is ok when you work out how to do it but is probably UK 6a for an on sight.
Al - 17/Apr/03

Oh, and move left to finish, there is no lower off straight up!
Al - 17/Apr/03

Guide lists 7 bolts. There were only 6. Has the top runner come out? There's an area of shattered rock where I would have expected it.
As the others say, move left to belay at top and possibly take a Friend 1/12 or 2 for an extra runner. Bottom is well butch and moves past last bolt are hard too.
John Alcock - 26/Jan/04

I found the crux move quite desperate to onsight, but much better when you work out the sequence. It's true, the belay is a bit far from the last bolt, but it's very easy climbing, it's all jugs!
Enrico - 26/Mar/05

quality.......the best 6c on portland? enough said
andy schof - 15/Sep/09

Good, but not the best 6c on Portland. Nobody's Hero (100m to the left) for example is better.
Ben Stokes - 22/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 31
    hard 6c+ 0 of 15
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    easy 6c+ 3 of 15
    hard 6c 4 of 15
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    easy 6c 2 of 15
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