3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Haute tension < Le genou de Claire  |  Ctuluh > Bête à sexe >>

1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5+, 5) 5, 6) 5+, 7) 6a+, 8) 6c+, 9) 5+, 10) A0/6a (7c), 11) 6a. Perhaps the archetypical Verdon experience, long and committing, on superb rock and with breathtaking positions. The bottom four pitches are often avoided by starting from the Jardin des Écureuils at the base of the Dalles Grises abseils. If starting from the bottom use the Ticket Danger abseils to reach the foot of Gwendal then walk 80m to the right to locate the start at a pillar under the centre of an arching roof. The first four pitches DO NOT appear on a topo. The second pitch traverses out right to skirt the overhangs and the 11th pitch is hard 7c if done free, though it can be easily aided. The final 'easy' pitch has spaced gear and has caused a few wobblers over the years!


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