Le pilier des écureuils

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Le pilier des écureuils (upper) < Mangoustine scatophage  |  Au delà du délire > Voie ULA >>

1) 6b+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 6b+, 5) 6a, 6) 5+, 7) 5+. At about 270m, split into seven, the route forges a way up the cliff in some pretty huge pitches. A rack will be needed by most teams to supplement the fixed gear. The lower section starts up a pillar that separates to huge orange cave-systems about 200m left of the base of the crack-system of La Demande. This is climbed in three pitches, the third one looping out left to avoid a tricky (6b) blank groove. The unmistakable upper groove is directly above the arrival point, and the steep first pitch (the crux) is quite intimidating. Above this, things gradually ease.


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