Voie ULA

Adjacent Routes
<< Le pilier des écureuils < Au dela du delire  |  Les marches du temps > El topo >>

1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5+, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6b, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 6a+. Together with La Demande, this is the other great line of L'Escalès. Three wandering warm up pitches lead into a 200m crack-system. The climbing is physical and sustained at the grade, and the rock impressive, with blank grey walls and harder routes either side. Though all belays are bolted, gear including some big stuff is essential unless you're happy running out 7m between existing bolts! Many parties avoid the first 3 pitches by accessing the route from the Jardin des Écureuils. In this case, from the base of Les Dalles Grises, traverse to the terrace 100m east, make two short abseils from a chain and tree to a narrow catwalk and the start of the crack system
Start about 150m left of the base of the crack-line of La Demande where a loose-looking orange pillar leads to a break in the long line of overhangs at 40m. Spiral up this, trending right through the overhangs. Loop left, then right to access the ledge below the upper corner - this can be split to avoid rope drag. Follow the corner resolutely to the top in six sustained pitches of jamming and bridging.