Master of the Rolls

2 Stars
 7a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Blackthorn Winter < Mistress of the Baps  |  The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller > The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler >>


A long, classy route with an exciting finish through the roof.
FA. Martin Crocker 23.4.1989

USER COMMENTS

Reach around to the right when on the jugs over the lip..theres a hidden jug that makes the top move much more do-able.
ben stokes - 04/Jun/01

Lovely climbing finishes with desperate 6b pull to belay. Helen and I couldn't do it, even on top rope. Did Crocker reach through? If you're as useless as us you might want to take a sling to stand in to reach the belay.
John Alcock - 26/Jan/04

A really nice route which you think you have onsighted, as you reach round the lip, and are greeted with huge jugs. However, you then have a ridiculous reach for poor holds to reach the belay!
steve - 06/Oct/05

Does anyone read my comments above?
Ben Stokes - 11/Oct/05

Even with the right-hand jug, the moves to the belay are the hardest on the route. Huge span from the jug to a poor hold then a desperate pull on this. Despite most of the route being relatively easy, the top moves warrent 7a+ overall (plus a long reach symbol!).
Graham Hoey - 30/Aug/08

Agree with the above. Used the hidden hold for the right hand, juggy horn for the left, heel on the big jugs over the lip, pull hard on the heel, get the hips up, lock right arm at chest level, full span extension and....
....i'm still about 4in short of the hold. Tried going full-on dynamic, not even touched it. Tried even dynoing when i still had hopes it would at least be a good hold, nope, barely brushed it.

I'm 5,9 with a -1/2in ape index and after 10 minutes on the rope i had to give up on the move. This is the first time in nearly 20 years i've given up on a move.

Has anyone of 5,9 or smaller ever done it?
señor.lopez - 15/Aug/11

Yes but you have to pull very hard - in my opinion not 7a! More like 7a+/b but as a 'only couple of moves wonder' after a very good rest it is one of those 'Hard to Grade' routes... maybe it'll get the up-grade it deserves in a new guide!
Paul Edwards - 21/Oct/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard 7b 0 of 0
    7b 0 of 0
    easy 7b 0 of 0
    hard 7a+ 0 of 0
    7a+ 0 of 0
    easy 7a+ 0 of 0
    hard 7a 0 of 0
    7a 0 of 0
    easy 7a 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 16
    2 Stars 5 of 16
    1 Star 3 of 16
    0 Stars 3 of 16
    Bag of ..... 5 of 16

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