Borstal BreakoutRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
Adjacent Routes
A square-cut groove at the top of the grass bank leads to a tricky finish directly through the upper overhang. Finishing on the left-hand side of the overhang is an equally good 6b variation. USER COMMENTS
How easy...more like 6b!
It did seem easier than expected. It has a good rest before the last move.
May even be 6a+!
I agree - 6a+ if you use the arrete to the left at the top. Straight up would give you the 6c grade - or more likely 6c+.
The 6c grade for this is absurd - it is entirely logical to make a small step left at the top (getting a good rest) and then work up to an OKish left hand side pull, easily clipping the belay from there. 6a+.
OK, OK, OK
Silly boy...
I think you could do it left or right, but it makes sense to do it straight up, sometimes you have to use blinkers. Having said that, that pocket was so nasty I couldn't be bothered...
6a+, methinks. Yes, you can don blinkers but where is the sense in that - you don't go miles off route, it's just a reach to the left...
If you can clip the bolt, you are not off-route.
Could do with a description in the guide as it's fierce straight up and feels off-route to the left. To the left is def no more than 6a+ (if that!).
This route was rather spoilt for me by a passerby saying the direct finish was F6c. Going direct seemed impossible below F7a, going right mght make it easier; but the obvious way is just to follow the line of least resistance, step left, move up a little and clip right, F6a+ max. One's centre of gravity is only about 1-2 feet left of the belay. This is the most natural way. The guide book is right as is. The 6c comments are just a red herring. |