Borstal Breakout

1 Stars
Technical
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Bawdy House < The Ghost of Saturday Night  |  The Kane Mutiny > The Best Men >>


A square-cut groove at the top of the grass bank leads to a tricky finish directly through the upper overhang. Finishing on the left-hand side of the overhang is an equally good 6b variation.
FA. H.Venables 17.12.1988

USER COMMENTS

How easy...more like 6b!
ben stokes - 02/Jul/01

It did seem easier than expected. It has a good rest before the last move.
srrk - 30/Jul/01

May even be 6a+!
Ben Stokes - 19/Feb/02

I agree - 6a+ if you use the arrete to the left at the top. Straight up would give you the 6c grade - or more likely 6c+.
James Thackray - 05/Jun/02

The 6c grade for this is absurd - it is entirely logical to make a small step left at the top (getting a good rest) and then work up to an OKish left hand side pull, easily clipping the belay from there. 6a+.

If you insist on wearing blinkers I think you'd struggle at 6c - I couldn't see any other holds!
Nic - 01/Apr/03

OK, OK, OK
6a+ if you use the holds on the left and then reach right for the belay. Much harder if you don blinkers (like I did) and climb the headwall direct!!!!!!!!
steve taylor - 02/Apr/03

Silly boy...
Ben Stokes - 02/Apr/03

I think you could do it left or right, but it makes sense to do it straight up, sometimes you have to use blinkers. Having said that, that pocket was so nasty I couldn't be bothered...
Bag of....
richardh - 13/Apr/03

6a+, methinks. Yes, you can don blinkers but where is the sense in that - you don't go miles off route, it's just a reach to the left...
Dan wrightson - 23/Apr/06

If you can clip the bolt, you are not off-route.
Ben Stokes - 24/Apr/06

Could do with a description in the guide as it's fierce straight up and feels off-route to the left. To the left is def no more than 6a+ (if that!).
Wilbur - 25/May/06

This route was rather spoilt for me by a passerby saying the direct finish was F6c. Going direct seemed impossible below F7a, going right mght make it easier; but the obvious way is just to follow the line of least resistance, step left, move up a little and clip right, F6a+ max. One's centre of gravity is only about 1-2 feet left of the belay. This is the most natural way. The guide book is right as is. The 6c comments are just a red herring.
william Oliver Hill - 22/Mar/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard 6c+ 0 of 0
    6c+ 0 of 0
    easy 6c+ 0 of 0
    hard 6c 0 of 0
    6c 0 of 0
    easy 6c 0 of 0
    hard 6b+ 0 of 0
    6b+ 0 of 0
    easy 6b+ 0 of 0
    3 Stars 0 of 12
    2 Stars 0 of 12
    1 Star 7 of 12
    0 Stars 2 of 12
    Bag of ..... 3 of 12

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