Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 45
A strong line and popular pitch. Move up the initial wall to the corner proper, then climb to beneath the roof. Traverse rightwards along the horizontal break and make a steep move up to a jug. Linking into the last moves of Wurlitzer Jukebox is 6c.
Good moves up to the final roof, where the line is lost. Potential to pendulum v. hard into the side wall when going for the last clip,which is quite run-out.
I agree with Joe, the line is not very obvious to following as you can't see the lower off from the ground...... it is a relief when you poke round the corner and see it though!! The pendulum can be reduced by clipping the bolt above the roof though it would still be pretty bad.
Thought the top was ok, its run out but easy when you do it. What I didnt like was the soapiness of the holds in the groove, changes it from a 2 to a 1 star route.
Brilliant climbing, but agree about the potential pendulum.
This route is a bit cruxy at the bottom half but, come on guys, at 6a+ you are going to find a bucket around the roof at this grade, where has your adventure gone.
Nice route, slightly odd bolting but the holds are up there.
good route - went the wrong way at the top though... Oops!
on re-acquaintance with this i am now of the opinion that it's frequently greasy.. it certainly has been on the 2 occasions i've climbed it anyway.
Good route, agree about the bolting, but hey, it all adds to the fun. Just gives you that little extra rush! Excellent
Good route, a little greasy and slightly polished now. I rested at the last bolt - glad i did, as it is a long way from there to the top! Which isn't a moan, just a due warning. I'll go back for the clean ascent :-)