Out of Reach, Out of Mind

2 Stars
Technical
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Gratuitous Lies Here < Keel Haul  |  No me Comas el Coco > Come, Armageddon, Come >>


The rounded groove is a fine climb. The pocketed groove passing - but not using - the doorknob, leads to the upper break. Make some steep and committing moves to finish.
FA. Pete Oxley 13.11.1988

USER COMMENTS

Hardest move is definitely the top!!
John - 08/Mar/00

Have to disagree with John - I thought the top was fine (and I'm not tall!). The technical section low down seemed like the crux to me.
Andy Robinson - 29/Mar/00

did it again this weekend and I reckon it's the top as it's now so polished.
james - 02/May/00

This felt fine at 6c - routes such as Cliche upon Cliche and The Unworthy are harder.
tom rainbow - 06/Sep/00

is this graded for using the doornob as a hand hold
as it is right in the middle of the crux move?
Alex - 07/Jul/02

It's a soft touch without the door knob so I'd say avoid if you want 6c+. No harder than 6c in my opinion even without it.
Fatty - 24/Jul/02

You used the door knob?! - It's not an aid route! It's tricky, but you don't need to grab the metal. The top is not a problem. I onsighted it and I'm short, fat and weak.
BenThorne - 07/Feb/03

Good route for a 1st 6c plus (without the door knob). The hard moves are very short
John Alcock - 06/Mar/03

A soft touch at 6c+. As for the long reach at the top - where is it?
Ben Stokes - 30/Sep/04

There is no long reach as long as you get your feet high, use a bit of technique & pull up on the obvious 2 holds.
Jus - 27/Mar/05

Hi all, i did this route last weekend and found it ok, (in fact i thought i was on a 6a, and therefore found it a bit more strenuous than i expected!!). Got to the top only to find the lower off in an extremely dangerous state, BE WARNED!!! There is now only 1 remaining functioning bolt in the lower off, the second is very rusty, loose and not to be trusted. (The bolt that remains is old and the glue around it looks crumbly.) Its impossible to make yourself safe and be able to thread the single bolt at the same time. (Once you have a quickdraw in the single bolt you can't pass the rope through at the same time). I had to lower off my single draw and re climb the route with a large screwgate crab (which I've left up there) in order to be able to clean the top and retrieve the rest of my gear. I would suggest that it is unsafe to climb this route until it has been fully re-bolted.
Ben Mason - 02/Jun/10

Gear at the top remains in a poor state. Otherwise a great route.
Chris Parson - 29/Apr/13

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard 6c+ 0 of 5
    6c+ 0 of 5
    easy 6c+ 0 of 5
    hard 6c 0 of 5
    6c 4 of 5
    easy 6c 1 of 5
    hard 6b+ 0 of 5
    6b+ 0 of 5
    easy 6b+ 0 of 5
    3 Stars 0 of 23
    2 Stars 11 of 23
    1 Star 12 of 23
    0 Stars 0 of 23
    Bag of ..... 0 of 23

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.