Jurassic Shift

2 Stars
Technical
 7a

Adjacent Routes
<< Buoys Will Be Buoys < Shape Shifter  |  The Fun Factory > Rave Mission >>


A well-positioned route. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge, as for Shape Shifter. Ascend the groove above to a steep finish.
FA. Pete Oxley 16.4.1993

USER COMMENTS

Enjoyable bridging. Much better than Scapa Flow, which is similar.
Ed Heslam - 23/Jul/00

This would be a brilliant 3 star F6b if it wasnt for someone sticking a two move V5 boulder problem in the middle of it, it could well be easier for the tall. The CC tech grade of English 6b seems about right for the short!
Al Evans - 09/Jun/02

Agree with Al. More like E2,6b in old money
Goi Ashmore - 05/Jul/04

first 7a onsight, route would of been much better without a huge rest ledge half way up it
keith - 29/May/05

Brilliant route, with some good rests and a nice crux.
Rin - 28/Jun/05

Brilliant route. Most of the route is 6a/b, except for the crux.
Enrico - 22/Aug/05

I on-sighted this and found it surprisingly soft for the grade, but hey I'm not complaining!
Bern - 14/May/06

Blew the crux, found it reachy. You can avoid the bridging by some thin face climbing out right though it's further from the bolt. The top is run-out but not hard and very safe.
John Alcock - 04/Jun/07

New route that starts from the mid height ledge on "Jurassic Shift" is called "Shape Shifter", from ledge step left and climb direct to the shared belay of "Bouys Will Be Bouys" via 3 new bolts and a powerful crux sequence.
Grade: 7b+/c FA: Bob Hickish 31/8/2008
bob - 03/Sep/08

New route "Shape Shifter" is a good addition, 7b would be a fair grade.
La Mont - 16/Nov/08

A really good route! if your looking for a long line on portland with several different styles of climbing this is a good one! easy climbing at the start to a massive rest on a ledge. Then some sequency climbing kind of keeps you guessing all over the place with a few hard pulls and a beautiful overhang to finish! great route a good backcliff experience!
andy schof - 15/Feb/09

New route "Shape Shifter" feels solid 7b+ to me
vlad - 29/Jun/09

Quite soft compared to (for example) Portland Heights or Modern Nightmare? Great fun all the same
Chris Parson - 29/Apr/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 22
    hard 7a+ 0 of 1
    7a+ 0 of 1
    easy 7a+ 0 of 1
    hard 7a 0 of 1
    7a 0 of 1
    easy 7a 0 of 1
    hard 6c+ 1 of 1
    6c+ 0 of 1
    easy 6c+ 0 of 1
    3 Stars 0 of 21
    2 Stars 18 of 21
    1 Star 3 of 21
    0 Stars 0 of 21
    Bag of ..... 0 of 21

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