Buoys Will Be Buoys Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 6b+

Adjacent Routes
<< Always Have the Edge < Pump Hitler  |  Shape Shifter > Jurassic Shift >>


A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best grade 6 sport climbs. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the right before heading up the wall above to a corner with a good crack in it. Climb the corner and the left-trending groove above to a roof and swing right along the breaks until it is possible to pull up onto the headwall and finish rightwards.
FA. Pete Oxley 10.7.1990

USER COMMENTS

Looks a little run out at the start from the ground, but it doesn't feel like it is when you climb it.
ben stokes - 02/Aug/00

Never really found the tricky mid height crack. Hardish moving up and right at the top but not for 6c!
Al Evans - 04/Jun/01

Excellent route .... sustained, but never desperate. Thoroughly recommended
Jason - 25/Mar/02

Agreed Jason, well worth its three stars.
Al Evans - 26/Mar/02

Good call guys, superb route...
Eddy - 05/Nov/02

This really is no more than 6a+
Mike Raine - 02/Jul/03

Now you're being silly Mike :-)
al evans - 26/Aug/03

Thought this could've been my first 6c, on-sight. Whooof! Sustained, or what? Maybe won't leave it 'til the end of the day, next time! Lives up to all of the above. Great line - trickier above the crack, if you ask me. Looking forward to the red-point.
Gavin McGrath - 19/Apr/04

Fab route. One of the best on the isle. 6b+
Jus - 26/Mar/05

This is E1 5b. No more than 6a+ though a little daunting up high. OK E2, 5b.so 6a+. 6c is just a joke and it isnt all that great
Ian Jones - 05/Jul/05

feels about 6c....made the mistake of traversing to the left at the top overhang then watched someone cruise it by going straight up. there is an old bolt about 2m to the left and slightly down which can be clipped if toproping afterwards to reduce any potential swings.
Morgan Woods - 05/Aug/05

Great route - sustained 6b to second last bolt then sting in the tail getting to and past the last. Quite hard (esp for short) and very committing!
Alison - 16/May/06

Easily one of the best routes in the area in this grade band. Interesting how some people find it harder and some easier. I thought it was a bit of a path for 6b+, but I did have the advantage of watched seen my mate on it first, so perhaps it just about justifies it.
Alun - 12/Mar/07

well i thought it was a awsome route and a prefect one to cruise definatly deserves the 6b+ because if ur not that strong theres a few moves abouve the crack which are hard but i realy dotn think its that pumpy as there are 2 realy decent rests
deserves the stars
peter - 23/Jun/07

Brilliant, and felt solid at 6b+ for the onsight.
Iain Moodie - 22/Jun/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 74
    hard 6c 0 of 19
    6c 0 of 19
    easy 6c 0 of 19
    hard 6b+ 2 of 19
    6b+ 10 of 19
    easy 6b+ 3 of 19
    hard 6b 4 of 19
    6b 0 of 19
    easy 6b 0 of 19
    3 Stars 44 of 55
    2 Stars 10 of 55
    1 Star 1 of 55
    0 Stars 0 of 55
    Bag of ..... 0 of 55

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.