Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
A long-established Portland favourite. Climb to the narrow roof and pass it on the right before making some fingery moves back left above it to an easing. Continue to the base of the upper corner and follow cracks up this, exiting leftwards.
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Once you've done the crux it's all over. The rest is pure enjoyment, although it can get pumpy! Top route.
Done this & 'Buoys . . .' three times each. This is the harder route.
I agree with Ed. So is this route undergraded or Bouys overgraded? Lots of shitty sandy holds spoil the first section of this route.
Buoys definately felt 6c to me...
I think the roof move would be on grade if the break wasn't sandy and damp right where you need it to be good.
I agree, the start is very hard for 6b+, especially for the short as you lose the good footholds under the roof. Definately harder than bouys will be bouys
Not actually done it yet but I've seen people cruising 7a's stopped by this one?
Did this and Buoys in the same day and found this way harder
Also, I counted 8 bolts and not 7
Have now done buoys to compare and then did this straight after, I thought the one move on this is harder than anything I found on buoys, there's a lot more of buoys at english 5b to keep you pumped, both at french 6c i reckon, this for the move, buoys for the pump.
Tough cruxy beginning, hard for the short, bucket run from 4th clip, 8 bolts not 7
This is 6b+ it's Bouys that very overgraded
Your problem is you are too tall Mike :-)
This is Fr6c. Easy after the 3rd clip mind.
Great Route, Must be easier for the tall, as I found it way easier than Bouys...
Finally done this clean! It is in the bag once the third bolt is reached but have always found the start hard, so happy it has been upgraded from 6b. Shame that the start isn't more in keeping with the upper 2/3 otherwise it would be a class 6a.
Just a 2 move route; E1 5c/6a or 6b/6b+
Wouldn't give it top 50 but good route. Gets the grade for the first 4 bolts.