Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 33
One of Portland's very best routes, ascending the white headwall via some exquisite moves. Low in the grade. Start at a bolt-line just to the right of a low corner. Climb the lower wall and then make a rising traverse left to a thin crack and tiny corner. Climb the thin crack and finish up the right-hand bolt-line.
A top training route with fixings in the boulder by the path for a bachar ladder to be fixed on the racing line crux. Zinc - Bachar training we love it!
The most beatyfull 7b+ I ever done.
well you must have done some shit ones...
If this is low in the grade, then Realm of Chaos is about 7a and Pump Hitler about 6C+
Oh come on Vladimir! This is not hard for 7b+, compared to others both in Dorset or elsewhere in the UK. You'd be hard pushed to find a 6b move on this. It's just a bit of a fingery stamina rig. Many would argue that it's 7b, but I would maintain that it is 7b+, but not by much. However, the grade aside, it is a very good route.
I agree that the route is brilliant, but I really do not think that it is low in the grade. I find it just as hard as keyboard wall or hall of mirrors, both soft 7Cs. It might be that I have missed some secret hold, but I find the moves about the crack (at the point where this routes touches the racing line) particularly demanding given the fact that after 5 meters of sustained crimping and 5-6 clips you are quite pumped. But that's only my opinion of course.
awesome! perfect holds exactly where your body wants to go! a full on stamina fest, personal epic for myself! really good!
Brilliant sustained climbing