Coming Unstuck

1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 6a+

Adjacent Routes
<< Heart of the Sun < U-143  |  Braer Rabbit > This is This >>


A testing series of moves on tiny pockets single out this line that is short on length, but great in difficulty.
FA. Steve Taylor 18.9.1993

USER COMMENTS

Technical and fingery. Nice route.
Ewan Whitmey - 02/Apr/00

After first bolt, traverse & feel for the hidden pocket with your left hand (high up). Try it without & you're stuck!
matt franks - 27/May/00

We all thought this was English 6a - what did we miss? Nice route though.
Andrew McLellan - 29/Jul/01

Miss out the first bolt and try the plumbline through the overhang. Makes it more interesting since the original route is just scrambling for the first ten feet. Good short one.
Justin - 10/Sep/01

My first 6a lead in Portland and boy did the rock-over to the second two finger pocket feel hard. full stretch for me with a toe on a tiny pebble. loved it once i'd worked it out...
Wilbur - 24/May/04

Hard pulls on small crimps with polished footholds makes this feel tough for the grade - good short route though.
Matthew Webb - 01/Sep/06

This is very easy for the grade compared to the other routes of a similar grade on the block. It is just a straightforward 5b rockover. Don't have a clue how Andrew thought it was english 6a. It is well off 6a
Fred Mead - 08/Sep/06

it is quite a blind move and a stretch/committing for the short as i remember.. probably about right at 6a+
Wilbur - 11/Oct/06

Tricky moves for the grade on the traverse I thought, but gets easier.
Glen Harding - 01/Jun/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 37
    hard 6b 0 of 20
    6b 0 of 20
    easy 6b 2 of 20
    hard 6a+ 5 of 20
    6a+ 7 of 20
    easy 6a+ 5 of 20
    hard 6a 1 of 20
    6a 0 of 20
    easy 6a 0 of 20
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 2 of 17
    1 Star 14 of 17
    0 Stars 1 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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