La directissime

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a+, 4) 6a, 5) 5+, 6) 6a), 7) 5+, 8) -, 9) 5+. A great effort for 1959 - the route follows the long groove-systems that bound the left-hand edge of the main wall. Originally the grooves were accessed from the cave away to the left by three pitches of grooves and a rightward traverse. This is Le Peril Jaune, 6a, which provides a slightly easier start to the route.


A great route. But sustained for the first 4 or 5 pitches and very polished. Trend left on about pitch 3 to stay in the crack. No need to take any gear.
Mark Grist - 10/May/11

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