Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6b, 4) 6a, 5) 5. Tackle the front of the pillar to the left of L'arete sud by excellent and well-positioned climbing on good rock. Reasonably well equipped where the difficulties are, though a rack might be useful on the easier ground. The crux wall on pitch 3 is short-lived (a quick pull on the bolt will reduce the overall grade to 6a) though the wide crack on pitch 4 might give a brief reason to pause and ponder. Descend rightwards along the ledge system.
A fine route. No bolted belay on top of pitch 1. I ran pitches 1 and 2 together at about 60 metres. The third pitch must be 6B+ but is easy to cheat if necessary. The 4th pitch has a big unprotected (by bolts) traverse under a roof. A competent 2nd or two ropes a good idea.