La tonton walker

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< La loco < L'étrier  |  L'arête sud > Le bout >>

1) 5+, 2) 6a, 3) 6b, 4) 6a, 5) 5. Tackle the front of the pillar to the left of L'arête sud by excellent and well-positioned climbing on good rock. Reasonably well equipped where the difficulties are, though a rack might be useful on the easier ground. The crux wall on pitch 3 is short-lived (a quick pull on the bolt will reduce the overall grade to 6a) though the wide crack on pitch 4 might give a brief reason to pause and ponder. Descend rightwards along the ledge system.


A fine route. No bolted belay on top of pitch 1. I ran pitches 1 and 2 together at about 60 metres. The third pitch must be 6B+ but is easy to cheat if necessary. The 4th pitch has a big unprotected (by bolts) traverse under a roof. A competent 2nd or two ropes a good idea.
Mark Grist - 10/May/11

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