Steamin'

1 Stars
Reachy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Rack < Another Turn  |  The Pinion > The Ariel >>


14m. Start just right of the arete and climb delicately, passing the right-hand edge of a thin overlap. From the ledge, climb a short crack, a wall and the final roof centrally.
FA. Chris Craggs 1983

USER COMMENTS

A good first E1 lead (it was mine),
as long as you're about six foot or more.
Much harder if you're shorter than
about 5'8".
Neil Bowers - 29/Jul/02

Certainly not a bas of s**t as one some voters give it, they've obviuosly not much experince. It is a bit contrived and escapable on all counts but worth a tick. If you keep to the correct line on the left, there is a nice delecate bit followed by the roof, which has two or three alterantive solutions, if you try hard and use your feet as well as your head you can easily reach through..
Si - 14/Jun/04

contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining.
Jon Greengrass - 06/Jul/04

My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds.
MeMeMe - 19/Jul/04

Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing.

NMM
Northern Mountain Monkey - 27/May/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 49
    hard E2 0 of 17
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    easy E2 0 of 17
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    E1 9 of 17
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    hard 5b 4 of 16
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    easy 5b 3 of 16
    hard 5a 0 of 16
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