Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 49
Start just right of the arete and climb delicately, passing the right-hand edge of a thin overlap. From the ledge, climb a short crack, a wall and the final roof centrally.
A good first E1 lead (it was mine),
Certainly not a bas of s**t as one some voters give it, they've obviuosly not much experince. It is a bit contrived and escapable on all counts but worth a tick. If you keep to the correct line on the left, there is a nice delecate bit followed by the roof, which has two or three alterantive solutions, if you try hard and use your feet as well as your head you can easily reach through..
contrived and escapable but some pleasant climbing on the slab none the less. climbing through the roof is problematical but entertaining.
My first E1 too. Was a bit contrived but pleasant combination of delicate slab at bottom and bold roof at top. I'm 5'10" and found no problem reaching, my partner is several inches shorter and could reach okay once she found appropriate footholds.
Also my first E1 lead. I agree that it is a good first E1 lead as the gear on the crux is good and the route is escapable. Im 6'4" and I found the roof pretty tricky as I had to get 'scrunched' up in order to reach the holds above the roof. The slab is easier than it looks (4a?) although I think there is the potential for decking out at the top of the slab. Well worth doing.