Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
In the right wall of the cleft a steep left-trending crack is followed on good (and creaky) holds until it is possible to stride into the chimney to finish. Or finish direct - a little harder.
Loose holds and dirt are hardly an attraction.
I found it much better than its reputation suggests, but then it hasn't rained properly for ages so was quite clean. The loose-but-not-going-anywhere holds near the start are part of the charm!
I finished direct by accident which felt about 4a/b good holds but spaced out and by that part feeling a bit tired.