Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 9
Climb up to a flake-crack, then move left onto the arete.
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Again, it would appear this has been retroed and is reputed to be excellent. Probably 6c.
This is very confusing - Gary Gibson has claimed a new route (Yikes Shaggy) that seems to follow the line of Poop Scoop. However, there is a blatant flake crack to the right of the bolted line up a scoop, and enough old fixed gear to the left of the bolted line for two routes. Can anybody shed any light? Anyway...the bolted line is excellent!
The line of Poop Scoop has been retroed and is probably 6c as suggested by Ben. This is a Martin Crocker line. The notion that a new line "Yikes Shaggy" supercedes Poop Scoop is absolute rubbish. The "new route" follows the same line as Poop Scoop and is therefore not a new route. Thanks must go to Gibson for rebolting Poop Scoop, but a new route can not be claimed.
Having done both routes, i cannot agree that they are the same. Martin's Route swings left from the base of the crack to pull out left past a drilled peg (which is not on the E5), so it misses out the first proper bit of Gary's Route. It then climbs the arete on the left side higher up and is a lot easier than the finish of Gary's.
I did Poop Scoop which does go out left past a peg before I did Yikes Shaggy. So they are different routes. It suprises me that the locals didn't know where Poop Scoop went but just assumed.
If you go to this bit of crag there is a new bolted line up the flake crack - this is recorded under Scoobydoobydoo. The line of bolts that corresponds to this route description and line for Poop Scoop in the guide starts up the same flake crack and then breaks left to the arete, right past the bolt, and using obvious holds (a nice sequence that appears a bit unlikely at first). It then goes straight up the arete to the lower-off. The climbing is close to the bolt line, does not feel eliminate or contrived, and is about F6c. Around the arete to the left is a line with a broken bolt and two drilled pegs. This looks good (worth re-equipping) with a hard section past the drilled pegs that could be F7b. This might correspond to My Dog's Got Fleas. Wherever the original routes went, the current bolt lines seem sensible.
There is a large loose block just above and left of the first bolt, beware!!