Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 70
14m. Climb The Green Streak until a delicate traverse out right gains the hanging slab. The next couple of moves are the crux and a low Friend in a pocket just about protects the start of the difficulties. When worried on the crux, remember the route has been done one-legged and with no hands!
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The book suggests freinds ie more than one, well I couldn't find more than a single small one.The bloke in the photo on this page has not even reached the crux never mind got past it. Good route, quite bold really, solid for the grade.
There's a solid friend 3.5 placement out to the right and below the level of the small friend
The guy in the photo HAS done the crux, since the traverse out is by far the hardest bit of the route, there is a friend where the guy's right hand is, and the rest is straight forward if a little runout.
Yep, you can get two Friends in. hard to tell whether the traverse low down or the step up higher up is harder... Lovely route
Although the traverse was tricky I thought the moves up the slab were the (psychological?) crux. I'm not convinced that the low friend would actually keep you off the ground if you muffed the move. Good route.
I'm agreeing with Dave F - I wouldn't want to fall off from the moves up the slab, even with good gear. Excellent route, though.
You can traverse or go straighter up, as I recall... but either way looks about the same difficulty. Good fun - makes you think, as a good slab should.
I think it depends on the height you traverse at. Traversing *just* above the overhang is maybe 5c and you get a good friend 0.5 at the end - in which case the crux is the traverse. Traversing higher up is easier but then hard to get the gear - and the crux is the higher slab.
Only just E1 because of the lack of gear. I only found one placement to protect the main slab part of the route. As for technical difficulty, disappointingly easy.
Excellent fun, thoughtful, balancy moves on the traverse and the slab. Personaly I couldn't find the friend placement on the right at the end of the traverse (perhaps as I was too high?), but this provided an extra deterrent against slipping on the top section of the slab! Well worth doing.
I thought traverse (I had my feet as low as possible in order that I might get some gear at the end of it) was pretty nails and had to back off. Conditions weren't great but even so I reckon it must have been at least 5b the way I was tryign it - and with no gear to speak of apart from a very dodgy number 1 nut which would probably have come out.
A good route; the traverse is definately the crux, the moves up the slab are 5a at most and straighforward once you commit to them. Didn't spot many opportunites for worthwhile gear.
I did the higher traverse (5a), descending slightly to gain the footpocket at the start of the difficulties. Found the pebble pulling to be hard...harder than Kayak at Curbar. No gear except a side runner before leaving Green Streak;stupid really. Better fall in the puddle.
Felt more HVS to me, certainly no worse than Sunset Slab. Solo the easier routes hereabouts first would be my advice. My gear was probably pish but somehow (the chunkiness of the pebble helped) it never seemed to matter. Decked from Valediction later though.
I think it does depend how far up Green Streak you go. I did the traverse higher and it was easy enough, with the slab about 5a. If you traverse as soon as possible, feet just above the overhang, then that looks a good 5b.