Son of Mustang Ford

1 Stars
Technical
 7a

Adjacent Routes
<< Sans Frontière < Sang Chaud  |  Mr. Natural > Catatonic >>


A thin and dirty wall with some good flowstone near the top.
FA. Pete Oxley 26.4.1992

USER COMMENTS

"Good flowstone near the top". I think thats all there is to this route, nothing good below the flowstone.
Richard White - 04/Jun/01

The worst route I have ever done. Firstly you have to climb past the first bolt to clip it. This wouldn’t be so bad if the start wasn’t snappy and dirty and situated above a 30 foot drop into the bottom of a gully. Secondly (if you survive the start) the route continues on more dirty and snappy rock (with a couple of worrying clips) to a dusty mid height ledge. Finally, two or maybe three good moves on solid rock lead to the base of the flowstone which is itself not that nice and in fact a little snappy.
Ben Stokes - 05/Jun/06

The bottom half needs a really good scrubbing but I think there's some good climbing under there - maybe 1* if clean. I agree the bolting on the first part is a bit gnarly, although it's now possible to clip the access rope to protect the first moves. Reach symbol required for leaving the ground - or a more solid rock pile. Crux is a good little sequence. Flowstone looks good but isn't the best climbing.
matt perks - 14/Aug/08

Nails!!!! Dirty!!! Scarey!!!! the gully appears beneath you as you pull on, and the first two bolts are badly positioned! especailly as the starting foothold crumble instantly upon use! good mid-section with reasonable flowstone at the top! but still spice in the middle
andy schof - 13/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard 7a+ 0 of 4
    7a+ 0 of 4
    easy 7a+ 1 of 4
    hard 7a 2 of 4
    7a 1 of 4
    easy 7a 0 of 4
    hard 6c+ 0 of 4
    6c+ 0 of 4
    easy 6c+ 0 of 4
    3 Stars 0 of 5
    2 Stars 0 of 5
    1 Star 1 of 5
    0 Stars 2 of 5
    Bag of ..... 2 of 5

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