Ariane V

3 Stars
Pumpy
 7b

Adjacent Routes
<< Cloud Atlas < Million Watt Marshalls  |  Disintegration > Zum Zeaux >>


A direct and pumpy version of Disintegration with no real crux moves, but plenty of hard ones. A very good route.
FA. Pete Oxley 9.5.1996

USER COMMENTS

awesome line which once the winter drainage has gone is one of the best on portland, when will the masses realise the host of good routes they are missing in this part of the cove? Hopefully never!
nealh - 29/Sep/04

Superb climbing, steady for the grade, and a no-hands rest when you are most likely to need it.
Ben Stokes - 10/Jul/06

Brilliant stamina climbing. Good moves all the way, with nothing too hard. Nice change of style after the roof.
Richard White - 21/May/07

got on this today and sacke dit for troll team, ive never been on a dirtier route! shame i was well psyched and the climbing looks awesome, but the holds seemed to be an inch thick with mud and crap! i think ill take down a brush and clean it up
andy schof - 16/Jun/09

It will be worth it - the route is ace!
Ben Stokes - 16/Jun/09

Agreed I did this in May but although the bottom is a little friable and a bit dirty the climb is more solid and excellent moves in the upper half :) - hope you decided to go back Andy?
Paul Edwards - 06/Aug/09

hey paul! yer for sure i will get back on this route! it does look excellent! ive seen the top half whilst climbing realm of chaous and the grey layback groove looks pretty cool! Im down here most weekends so i will try and clean it when i have some time! Hopefully there will be a big local team effort to rebolt outside the gate, mask, hombre solaire and sasketawan soon so well see.....
andy schof - 07/Aug/09

You are so right Andy on the re-bolt I tried saskatchewan and bailed the hard start protected by a drilled peg ...maybe loss of holds or maybe I was having a poor non-committing day... as Arnie says "I'll be back"
Paul Edwards - 27/Sep/09

:D haha! yes i wouldnt like to lob off on rusty pegs at wallsend! were actually having a bolt bending party this sat night! we will hopefully bend 1000 new u-staple bolts and after i am back from some climbing in europe around december i will get on it! well have to meet up for the redpoint as my good friend rob kennard is keen for this one as well :D (sasketawan that is!)
andy schof - 02/Oct/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
    hard 7b+ 0 of 5
    7b+ 0 of 5
    easy 7b+ 0 of 5
    hard 7b 0 of 5
    7b 3 of 5
    easy 7b 2 of 5
    hard 7a+ 0 of 5
    7a+ 0 of 5
    easy 7a+ 0 of 5
    3 Stars 4 of 5
    2 Stars 1 of 5
    1 Star 0 of 5
    0 Stars 0 of 5
    Bag of ..... 0 of 5

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.