The Disillusioned Screw Machine
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One of the great challenges of the crag. Most climbers do the route in one pitch, by climbing the first pitch, clipping in, pulling the rope through to reduce rope drag, and then continuing. Start below a large flake corner.
1) 6a. Climb up to a bolt and make a hard move to good holds directly above. Move up and slightly left to clip bolts on Harry the Clamp. Step right, crossing the corner on huge but friable holds and up to a double bolt belay.
2) 6b. Traverse right past two bolts via a hard and blind move to a scoop and a good rest. Pull leftwards out of the scoop to gain a huge pocket. Climb thoughtfully up the headwall to the top.
FA. J.Readhead, A.Pollitt 27.7.1982. FFA. A.Pollitt, P.Williams 14.6.1983