The Vice

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Crab Crawl < Crab Crawl Arete  |  Kerb > Paved Vacuum >>

The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands!
FA. Clive Rowland (with single threaded chockstone runner) 1962


Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".
Garan - 08/Sep/03

Damage to hands, wrists and ego.
srrk - 12/Jul/04

Tape up, and don't hang around on it! The top's not too bad if you sort your feet out. But still no way HVS.
Pat - 12/Sep/04

I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
PatEase - 24/Feb/05

One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
Neil Ireson - 24/May/05

Did it in plimsoles (PA's), piece of rock as a runner, pished 4 hours later. Seconded by Willis Ward. Good luck to all that follow(ed).
Clive Rowland - 17/Oct/05

Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
DuzWalker - 24/May/07

If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
Tom - 12/Jul/07

Brilliant climbing. Have done way harder HVS routes like Tower Crack. Would only get HVS 5B in Staffordshire.
craig devonshire - 22/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 94
    hard E2 0 of 33
    E2 0 of 33
    easy E2 6 of 33
    hard E1 4 of 33
    E1 13 of 33
    easy E1 1 of 33
    hard HVS 9 of 33
    HVS 0 of 33
    easy HVS 0 of 33
    hard 5c 0 of 31
    5c 0 of 31
    easy 5c 5 of 31
    hard 5b 5 of 31
    5b 16 of 31
    easy 5b 4 of 31
    hard 5a 1 of 31
    5a 0 of 31
    easy 5a 0 of 31
    3 Stars 22 of 30
    2 Stars 8 of 30
    1 Star 0 of 30
    0 Stars 0 of 30
    Bag of ..... 0 of 30

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