The Bittersweet Connection
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A strenuous and problematical 1st pitch leads to a sensational finish over the top roof. Start as for New Dimensions.
1) 6b 26m. From the cave pull left past a bolt and go up to a thread. Climb the wall above to a bulge. Pass this (bolt and crux) on its left with a long reach, or on its right - hard and slopy. Continue to the break and move left to the Appian Way belay.
2) 6a 15m. Climb to the roof (big thread) and cross it wildly. Finish up the loose wall above and belay well back. Not in current guidebook.
FA. (1pt aid) J.Readhead, K.Robertson 6.9.79. They started up Central Pillar and moved right. FFA R.Fawcett 14.9.82. The described route, starting from the right, was climbed by D.Lyon in 1988.