<< Up Uranus < James | Against All Odds > 'E' >>
The original line up this massive wall is still waiting to go free. Much of the gear is now rotten so anyone who wants to make a free ascent of it will have to put a lot of work in first, however I have it on good authority that the route will go free at quite a reasonable grade. At present there are 4pts of aid on the two hard pitches. It starts from the belay of James.
1) 5a, 20m. Follow James for 10m then move right past an alcove to arrive at the first cluster of rotten gear.
2) 6b/A0, 45m. Follow the traverse line past a good pocket to a bolt (aid-rest point) before some hanging tat. Keep traversing to another aid-rest just past a vertical crack. Bold and sustained climbing leads down rightwards to a flake (possible stance). Climb the flake to a groove which leads to the main traverse line.
3) 5b, 45m. Climb leftwards along the traverse line (poor rock) then go up a series of grooves to a large cave.
4) 6a/A2, 20m. Climb a corner on the left to a bulge. use 2 pegs to aid over this then traverse strenuously right along the overlap, to a crack going through the roof. Pull over and belay on the left.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb a groove and grassy rock to a large cave.
6) 20m. Go right and scramble easily to the top.
FA. (much aid) R.Edwards 3.70. L.Dickinson, N.Horne, P.Minks, B.Molyneux and C.Philips were involved in cleaning and climbing some sections of the route before Rowland Edwards' remarkable solo ascent.