Tunnel of Love
<< Old Sam < The Glass Wall | None > None >>
A superb and committing route that requires very steady climbing. It is sustained and bold and also has it far share of loose rock but the situation makes it all worth it.
1) 5b 18m. As for Old Sam.
2) 5c 34m. Make a couple of moves up then traverse left to a vertical slot. Go up and left then traverse steeply left, descending slightly to a vague crackline. Climb this then cross leftwards to a peg. Go straight up to an overlap, and pull over to a peg. make some awkward moves to an undercut crack above (the base of 'The Big Flake'). Then climb straight up (loose and covered in guano) to belay on the top of the flake.
3) 5b 30m. It originally finished as for The Big Flake (next page). Now the only viable finish is to traverse right to the Glass Wall belay and pull out from there.
FA. C.Lyon, A.Moore 24.9.81