Great Buttress Arete

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Great Chimney Crack < Thrown Away  |  Great Buttress > Just a Minute >>


12m. A fine climb up the long arete. A tape can be placed over a flake early on for protection, and above this the route gives sustained and interesting climbing.
FA. Pete Crew early 1960ís

USER COMMENTS

Watch out for the rocking block on top of the route - probably not going anywhere, but pretty unnerving!
Toby - 20/Sep/02

Can't see why this was ever given E2 - soft touch E1 IMO, but maybe a long reach helps. Great route though, plenty of gear, sustained
Chris Moor - 26/Jun/03

Me either, standard but excellent E1 arete fare I reckon, so much gear I thought it must be christmas!
Salamanda - 14/Mar/04

I agree with Chris, this is soft touch E1. The original E2 grade must be for a pre-zero friend era
Jonathan Lee - 19/Apr/04

That's one of the stupidest comments added! Pre zero friends! Seeing as they've only been available for about a year then yes the grade is about right. E2 is still not that bad a grade, it's a bit reachy and run out at the top without 'modern' gear.
John Camateras - 19/Apr/04

Sorry John, I meant pre small friends (0.5 and 0), when the last bit of gear would have been the sling over the spike
Jonathan Lee - 02/Jun/04

i agree with soft touch E1, the moves are excellent though and the gear is superb!
free_doherty - 07/May/05

2 or 3 5b moves, quite reachy. Probably your average E1 5b really. Very nice route!
Iggy_B - 18/May/05

We top-roped this yesterday and I was so glad I wimped out rather than falling off higher up. I put in what I thought was a bomber chockstone belay. While lowering off a sudden jerk on the rope released the belay, I presume the rocking block rocked and released the belay. Fortunately I was only a few feet from the deck and only received a sore bum. Very unnerving and many thoughts of what might have been! Moral: be careful with your belays at the top and remember that 2 points of protection are better than one.
Tony Ryland - 22/Aug/05

Definitely don't need zero friends for this, or even friends below size 1. It certainly felt pretty safe, and not too hard for an E1.
Also second the comment about the top block, make sure you use something alse as well!
katonka - 09/Oct/06

It is possible with some care and attention to place adequate wire protection. The grade E1 but not high in the grade.
Steve C - 14/Oct/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 66
    hard E2 0 of 24
    E2 0 of 24
    easy E2 3 of 24
    hard E1 4 of 24
    E1 13 of 24
    easy E1 3 of 24
    hard HVS 1 of 24
    HVS 0 of 24
    easy HVS 0 of 24
    hard 5c 0 of 22
    5c 0 of 22
    easy 5c 0 of 22
    hard 5b 0 of 22
    5b 20 of 22
    easy 5b 2 of 22
    hard 5a 0 of 22
    5a 0 of 22
    easy 5a 0 of 22
    3 Stars 7 of 20
    2 Stars 13 of 20
    1 Star 0 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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