Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 127
10m. Climb the front arete of the buttress using the curving crack to gain a small ledge (5b for shorties). Move leftwards to follow flakes out onto the face to a finish with some urgency.
Definitely HVS (as it is in the printed guide).
A direct finish is possible (Rimmington Place - E2 5c) from the good break above the ledge.
Three stars, no question. Why is it not HVS?
Beautiful bit of rock, balancy then strenuous. Gear is good and this is a must at HVS 5a - Collossal! A Rock 1 or 2 most useful to protect the last moves...
Do your best to avoid the barn-door as you swing into the main crack on the face from the right.
the gear on this is great, which is why i think it's given vs 5a. the route has got some great moves on very positive holds.
The reachy section up to the ledge below the overhang is a trifle bold, umless you place gear blind in the curving crack to the left. The landing is awful. So HVS. Nice route.