Beach Madness

USER COMMENTS

How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?
Dick Gerrish - 16/Jun/04

The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts.
Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
steve taylor - 17/Jun/04

The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
Dick gerrish - 17/Jun/04

When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope.

No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
Ben Thorne - 23/Sep/04