Route Grade Votings
Follow the The Great Escape to the 6th bolt, then climb direct through the roof to a belay on a block. Note that the crux is on The Great Escape.
How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?
The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts.
The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope.