Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
Well-positioned moves on the headwall. The lower moves are easy, but the climbing builds up nicely to a first-class crux sequence.
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A steep second half with good climbing after a crap dusty first half, (like many of the routes on this wall).
The top fifteen feet are excellent, the rest is a dusty pile of shite. In my opinion one of the worst routes on Portland. I haven't done the others on this wall though, so they could be even poorer.
I think this wall must have cleaned up a lot since you guys went on it, I think Neddyfields is an underated cliff, really useful when its windy and cold on the other coast. We had a great day there yesterday positively basking in the sunshine while people were freezing their rocks off on in the wind and shade at Blacknor etc. It just needs more bolted routes, lets once and for all stop pretending Portland is any good for trad climbing and make use of some great potential on this coast. Only problem is that nearly all the routes I've done there have top moves about twice as hard as the rest of the route.
This crag really needs sorting out, what is the desperate looking route over the roofs to the left of Julie Ocean and right of Wanderlust? They look like old style bolts, is it a project or has it been done? The whole guide to this area needs sorting out and it needs at least 10 more sport routes bolting up to give it its true value and make sense of the place.
Al - the route to the L of Julie Ocean is called "Sh*t Route" by Andy Long, and is 7a or 7a+. The roof isn't too bad, put getting into the finishing crack is pretty difficult.
Excellent route, hard to on-sight at the top (i.e. I didn't!) However I find it hard to understand some of the comments above. It's a good cliff getting the morning sun and more shelter than most from the wind. The lower moves are easy but it builds up nicely to a first class crux sequence.
Couldn't do the crux.
Crux felt a touch hard for 6c+, but not hard enough to warrant 7a, which i think it gets in the new CC guide. Very fun route, warms up well and the last six metres are excellent. Slightly dusty at the start.
It might be dusty low down but it's not that unpleasent as the holds are big and solid. Superb crux at the top which provides a fitting climax to the steadily increasing difficulty. Top end 6c+ for me.