Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 14
Easy climbing to one nails move.
A truely poor route as it is so inconsistent in grade. It is essentially all English 4c moves with a final ridiculously hard English 6b finish. When I came to the final moves, I had to abort and go up the route next door to check I was wasnt dreaming!
First ascent was probably Guy Dixon - I've never managed the top move!!!
Unbalanced, yes, but as Steve points out - most of Portland is steady climbing with headwall cruxes.
Okay, now I really have to disagree with the re-grade. Does one comment on a frankly unrepresentative database warrant an up-grade?
I would say this route is ridiculously height dependent and ungradeable. I am 6ft1 and undercutting the smooth arc I was still 2 inches or so short of the top hold. Someone 6ft6 would find this easy, someone 5ft6 absolutely impossible.
Err... I'm 5ft6 and I did it!
Re: Credit due - clearly I am lacking some imagination on how to do the move.
It's not about reach. It's about technique (as is the rest of the island).
Been back on this, clearly I was weak before did the top move no problem - 6b+ or soft 6c...