Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 41
A very popular line. Low in the grade, but don't underestimate the finish, which has a hard move.
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Headwall good, rest a bit loose. Climb to the top of the crag to make the most of it.
Contrary to the comment on the Rockfax update, this route does not incorporate any of the trad routes "Steve's Wall" or "Frank's Effort" - it takes the "unclimbed corner" described in the trad guide.
Worth doing as it's different to most Portland routes. We thought it was about 6a though!
Definitely no harder than 5+/6a. Very pumpy, but not difficult.
I agree - 6a max...till the top. I found it impossible to clip the lower-off and I tried hard!! But then I'm a short arse (5"2). Loose stuff quite scary too - using small crimps to avoid big wobbling blocks! Apart from that great...!!
We thought this was one of the best routes we have done at Portland, hard 6a+ but great climbing with a real line, the previous comments I find puzzling, probably the best route at Neddyfields.
Super climb shame about the last 6ft, that definatly made it a 6b (overall climb).
Really good route. Don't go left at the top, but pull right a bit, then its ok.
What's the 7a called then? Is there a 7a?
Watch out for poor rock on this route. My partner pulled off a seemingly solid bit that was about 4-5 inches thick and about the size of a large micro-wave. She was lucky it was the end of the day and had decided just to second this one rather than lead it. The scar is just below the forth bolt though it won't have effected the grade.
I am so glad I decided to second this climb.
Nice route - good steep section at the bottom. Top moves just edge this into 6b?
Stunning. One of the steepest routes for the grade I've ever done.. and there's such a delicate finish. Endless English 5a, with a 5c top. Clipping the belay is a bitch if you're short. I used a Frog.
I would keep away from this route as a massive block about the size of a TV dropped off by the 2nd bolt just as I clipped the 3rd! Luckily my belayer had moved to the side as some flakes dropped out of the block as I climbed past it!
Brilliant route. Mindless steep jug hauling into neat delicate top section.
stunning route. no loose stuff except the dust but with these huge jugs no prob! first part is easy going and at the end I would suppose going a bit left and than right again.
Loose half brick sized hold below crux and my mate tossed of a half brick while he was leading it. The bolt above the crux is rather badly placed for the small ledges below. much better routes here with less stars than this...