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Climb straight up black pocketed rock, past an angular chockstone in a horizontal break to a thread. Pass the thread on the left over a bulge and move up into small corner. Step out left and continue boldly up the wall to a good horizontal break. Climb right then left between the breaks to gain a small sloping niche below the headwall. Pull up the headwall on good holds to finish past a big thread and broken ledge. Traverse off right (or leave a rope over loose ground) belay on fence post.
FA. Marti Hallett, Sam Ferguson 15.3.2011