Dark Side of the Sun
<< Jericho Groove < Black Sunshine | Nassty Spider > Aventura >>
An excellent new route on superb rock and with good protection. Start 3m right of Black Sunshine at an overhang leading to a thin crack underneath a gap in the overhangs at 10m. Surmount the overhang and climb the crack to just below a bulge. Traverse left a couple of moves to a flake-crack leading up to the overhang forming the left side of the gap. Pull rightward round the overhang with conviction and into the gap. Bridge this to jugs and continue to the corner on Black Sunshine. At the top of this take a direct line on excellent rock to a small overhang. Pull through this on good holds and finish up a delightful prickly rib.
FA. Simon Laker, Pete Finklaire 12.6.2010