Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 21
A hard and height-dependant start is followed by a pause at the break and a final heave over the roof. High in the grade.
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The no-hands rest below the final roof makes this an easy 7b+. The bottom is best achieved with a heel hook out right on the doorframe sized edge, especially if your short!
The right-hand verision (joining at the large flow jug, high up) is Neal's Variant B7.
Shouldn't Neal's Variant be 'Paul Savages Variant'? Pretty sure that's the method Paul used a few years ago - however, perhaps Neal was there first?
The top crux is as follows...using foot locks in the break undercut the lip with the left hand and reach the rail with the right. Gain the pocket above with the right and grab the small crimper up and left. Bring the feet over the lip and go again with the left to a mono pinch. Lift the right foot onto the ramp and strech for the intermediate slopper (left) and then the top jug. Easy when you know how...V6
some of us would still like to be able to on-sight occasionally, if you want beta leave your e-mail so the rest of the world doesn't have to read it!
don't want beat? - then don't read it.
Damn right pete
Did this at the weekend and thought it was nails! No heal hook to be had just stiff pull, intermediat pinch and desperate lung for the jug. Harder than Hall of Mirrors to name but one. Very good route. Packs a lot of climbing it to such a short route.
Agreed this is nails!
Stick hard for 7b+
well there's beta for the top crux but I'm still stuck doing the V7 start, can get the left hand up to the side pull pinch then either left foot to the pocket or right foot heel hook but either way leaves me short going for the jug, any advice will be much appreciated...
Once you have the heel-hook on, crank like a beast on the heel, while using a sharp vertical crimp out right- getting your left foot in the right place helps here, too, to gain the required height.
Cheers Rob - seems I've got the right method just need to find that elusive left foot placement and some extra strength....
in case anyone cares I was right - more power was the answer - proper class problem
v7 into a v6?!
I was suprised when this got down graded from 7c :/