Tipping the Scales

1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
 7a

Adjacent Routes
<< Elephant on Rollerskates < Limbo Dancer  |  Pop for the Top > Two Nuns, a Hang-glider and Jesus >>


The short blank wall is a very tough little cookie.
FA. Steve Taylor 23.4.1994

USER COMMENTS

found this very tricky, normally climb at this grade ok, although perhaps on steeper rock
paul - 15/Feb/01

Short but desperate. I can't think of any 7a's I've found harder.
stone - 10/Mar/01

one of the most inspiring routes of this grade I'v3e come across climb 7b+ but took several goes to figure out the the top sequence (just slap for the break)
timmy - 08/Dec/02

Good fun little problem. It's got holds, but they're rather small and will rip your fingers to shreds if you're not careful.
James Jackson - 21/Mar/05

Nails.
Richard Horn - 04/Jul/05

6c+ max. Worked this several years ago. Once you figure the sequence it's a doddle. Even the top section is easy once you figure it out.
And don't cheat like the dude in the photo.
Ben Thorne - 29/Jul/05

Yes this is hard for 7a however it is so short, what do you expect! However it is a bit of a finger tip shreader, best do it first go!
steve p - 05/Dec/05

Note that one of the top staples was missing (last one before the loweroff I think) last time I was there (summer sometime)
James Jackson - 07/Dec/05

There are, and only ever have been, 2 bolts up to the lower-off!
It's a bit scary, but easier than the meat of the route.
steve taylor - 07/Dec/05

What is this route like after the big break? I want to ground up solo, I have done it to the the last big crimp, I am worried about committing if the top is hard.

Fred
Fred Mead - 16/Mar/06

Have soloed this myself. The move to the top bolts is a bit scary since I was putting my foot in the top break as a jam. But the true crux is below this getting the break from the little finger mono in the flow!!
JIMBO - 17/Mar/06

grrrr i still can get that mono!!!!!
airbournegrapefruit - 07/Nov/06

Got back on this today after saying "sod it" to the ground up solo. I redpointed... really cool move from the little finger mono, really critical you do use it, otherwise nails.

Redpoint felt easy, tho figuring out the moves in itself probably warrents 7a!! Hard 7a is fair.
Fred Mead - 28/Dec/06

the little finger mono is by no means critical
did it yesterday without the mono at all...
Ben Tyrrell - 05/May/08

I thought this was okay - some small holds but nothing outrageous. The thought of a little finger mono makes me cringe so I'm glad I didn't see anything like that: bouldery F7a for me.
matt perks - 18/Aug/08

great little route - found the move to the break physically the hardest however menatlly the crux was getting to the lower off! definately 7a in my book
miss_chief09 - 11/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 19
    hard 7a+ 0 of 7
    7a+ 0 of 7
    easy 7a+ 2 of 7
    hard 7a 3 of 7
    7a 1 of 7
    easy 7a 0 of 7
    hard 6c+ 1 of 7
    6c+ 0 of 7
    easy 6c+ 0 of 7
    3 Stars 2 of 12
    2 Stars 1 of 12
    1 Star 8 of 12
    0 Stars 1 of 12
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