Phats and Bigs

Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
 V5 6C

Adjacent Routes
<< Buddleia Boulevard < Skaterdater  |  Elephant on Rollerskates > Limbo Dancer >>


6m. Climb direct up the blank face left of the crack of The Fat Controller. Don't touch the ledge on the left or the undercut on the right. It gets quite high. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Jim Kimber 11.99

USER COMMENTS

The traverse at the bottom is Phat Traverse B4. Start by the crack and go left, then up to the jug. **
Ben - 20/Mar/00

The low extension to the Phat Traverse has been completed by Jimbo, it feels hard and technical, probably V8.
James - 04/Apr/00

The low extension to 'Phat Traverse' is called 'Weight Watchers' and is about V6/7. The ledge above your head is out!
JIMBO - 10/Apr/00

New problems to the left -

Phat Slab (New Cuttings) (V3)
A tight line on the slab left of Phats and Bigs. Straight up the slab via a flat hold and 3 undercuts without using the left arête or the ledge and the good crimp above it on the left.

Jonny Sniper (New Cuttings) (V4/5)
The arête left of Phat slab on its left hand side. Nice moves from a sit start (hands on ledge) leads to some technical moves so gain the top break via a gaston on the far left of the small roof. Highball.

Percy Thrower (New Cuttings) (V4)
The wall led of Jonny Sniper and sharing some holds with JS. From a sit start gentle climbing (keeping out of the corner- crack line for left hand) leads to the gaston on JS taken with the right hand as a side pull a distinctly cruxy move leads to a bowl in the lip above the roof. Highball.

as described on dorset-climbing (dot) com
Ben Tyrrell - 09/Apr/07

okay I can't type - Percy Thrower is left (not led) of Jonny Sniper!!!!
Ben Tyrrell - 09/Apr/07

These "new" problems are al old trad routes done in the seventies anddone mny tims since!!
JIMBO - 11/Apr/07

These "new" problems are allold trad routes done in the seventies anddone mny tims since!!
JIMBO - 11/Apr/07

Was a bit quick with the 'seventies' bit, usually easy gaps are there because they were 70s trad lines! Looked them up, from 89/90 since before this the crag didn't exist! Names like 'Head of Steam' and 'Loco'... after the old train I guess.
JIMBO - 11/Apr/07

Jimbo- fair play, my guess is that as boulder problems the lines will be a bit tighter than as trad line but it's just a guess. The two problems on the left were recovered from some very thick stemmed and heavy ivy cover (+ brambles at the base)so if nothing else at least they are climbable again now.....
Ben Tyrrell - 19/Apr/07

Cheers for the clearing of the ivy. It really only takes a year or two for it to cover the place. The whole left side was clear just a few years ago. Plenty of problems were done there but now all covered up again.
JIMBO - 19/Apr/07

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