Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 139
The big corner at the base of the track that runs down under this section of the crag has some long reaches. Although it has become polished, it is still about right at the grade, but perhaps is a little tougher for the short.
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Retroed by M.Vicaitis because he couldn't be bothered to buy a CC guide to check if it had been done before on trad!
Crucial holds near the deck are getting really polished now !
THE ROUTE IS AT LEAST 6A+ AS A FEW HOLDS HAVE BROKEN OFF AND LIE AT THE BOTTOM.VERY POLISHED.
what i'd call an absolutely gorgeous climb. fantastic, especially the harder bit at the top (i'm only 5'6")
is it eck 6a+, its 5+.
6a+ my arse. Nothing's fallen off in years. Polished yes, but there are so many ways to get on it you can avoid the polish. The top move is hard if you're short though (and want to avoid backing into the corner - cheating).
Excellent route. Felt a bit run out at the top, definately did not want to fall on the last couple of moves before the lower off at the top. 60cm extender comes in useful.
Once you've worked out the start, an exciting climb. A route well worth doing if you're in the area.
Tis fine at the top as you're right by the bolt when you are going for the top clip, there's a sneeky triangle shaped crimp quite close the top which helps the final move.
5+ is fine apart from the start, which is polished as hell. spat me off three times!
If you're short (as i am!) then good footwork and a bit of bottle will see you through. Really enjoyed this lead after bricking it a bit on the first couple of clips... PS: the start is a bit polished for feet so beware
I've top roped this and found it a fair 5+. My lead attempt saw me take 3 falls before I'd even got the second protection in (I climb 6b+ indoors on TR). BIG adrenaline, leave your fears on the ground, take some dettol, wear a hat and enjoy it!
you bunch of poofs this route is brillient.
Its ok but not brilliant by any stretch of the imagination.
If by "brilliant" you mean "reachy and polished", then i would have to agree...
Get over it. It is just some 5+ that gets 1 star in Rockfax (which would be 0 stars in the CC guide). Can't believe it gets so many comments!
get over it JIMBO.and take a chill pill
very,very polished at the bottom, but still easier than chalkie and the hex 5...the top took a little working out, once found the crimp is bomber
Took a couple of attempts to get the first clip, but then it was not too bad until the top. If you have the reach I'm sure the top is fine but a bit of a reach for us short arses. I'd say it's a bit of a hard 5+ compared to other 5+'s on Portland.
The new route to the left is "The Little Sod" 6b.
"The little sod" is a good route. a bit technical untill your on the ledges and shame its not longer but still a good climb. probably 6b.
New Route: Lup Dup, 6a+? - F.A. Paul Johnson.
Lup Dup. Very nice route which easily gets a star in my opinion. The moves involving the undercut flake are really nicely! i reckon 6a+
Good natural line, a bit polished with a tricky start: rising traverse from left is hard but well protected, direct start easier but is further from first clip...