The Sod

1 Stars
Reachy
 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Little Chef < Little Sod  |  Lup Dup > Mindmeld >>


The big corner at the base of the track that runs down under this section of the crag has some long reaches. Although it has become polished, it is still about right at the grade, but perhaps is a little tougher for the short.

USER COMMENTS

Great warm-up.
Getting polished. Go direct at start for better moves (the left start is polished and now trickier)
Ben - 20/Mar/00

Retroed by M.Vicaitis because he couldn't be bothered to buy a CC guide to check if it had been done before on trad!
JIMBO - 23/Mar/00

Crucial holds near the deck are getting really polished now !
Ewan Whitmey - 09/Jul/00

THE ROUTE IS AT LEAST 6A+ AS A FEW HOLDS HAVE BROKEN OFF AND LIE AT THE BOTTOM.VERY POLISHED.
ANDREW MACKINTOSH - 24/Nov/01

what i'd call an absolutely gorgeous climb. fantastic, especially the harder bit at the top (i'm only 5'6")
chris warner - 09/Jan/02

is it eck 6a+, its 5+.
paul heathcote - 14/Jun/02

6a+ my arse. Nothing's fallen off in years. Polished yes, but there are so many ways to get on it you can avoid the polish. The top move is hard if you're short though (and want to avoid backing into the corner - cheating).
BenThorne - 07/Feb/03

Excellent route. Felt a bit run out at the top, definately did not want to fall on the last couple of moves before the lower off at the top. 60cm extender comes in useful.
Richard Horn - 24/Mar/03

Once you've worked out the start, an exciting climb. A route well worth doing if you're in the area.
Jez - 25/May/03

Tis fine at the top as you're right by the bolt when you are going for the top clip, there's a sneeky triangle shaped crimp quite close the top which helps the final move.
Becky T - 10/Jun/03

5+ is fine apart from the start, which is polished as hell. spat me off three times!
richard stokes - 05/Aug/03

If you're short (as i am!) then good footwork and a bit of bottle will see you through. Really enjoyed this lead after bricking it a bit on the first couple of clips... PS: the start is a bit polished for feet so beware
Wilbur - 24/May/04

I've top roped this and found it a fair 5+. My lead attempt saw me take 3 falls before I'd even got the second protection in (I climb 6b+ indoors on TR). BIG adrenaline, leave your fears on the ground, take some dettol, wear a hat and enjoy it!
Simon Rorke - 22/Aug/05

you bunch of poofs this route is brillient.
on of the only routes on the island i dont mind taking a fall on. start on the right it makes it a bit more fun.
airbournegrapefruit - 17/Jan/06

Its ok but not brilliant by any stretch of the imagination.
Richard Horn - 18/Jan/06

If by "brilliant" you mean "reachy and polished", then i would have to agree...
Wilbur - 19/Jan/06

Get over it. It is just some 5+ that gets 1 star in Rockfax (which would be 0 stars in the CC guide). Can't believe it gets so many comments!
JIMBO - 20/Jan/06

get over it JIMBO.and take a chill pill
Peter Swift - 20/Jan/06

very,very polished at the bottom, but still easier than chalkie and the hex 5...the top took a little working out, once found the crimp is bomber
viking - 30/Jan/06

Took a couple of attempts to get the first clip, but then it was not too bad until the top. If you have the reach I'm sure the top is fine but a bit of a reach for us short arses. I'd say it's a bit of a hard 5+ compared to other 5+'s on Portland.
howlingmad - 25/Jun/06

The new route to the left is "The Little Sod" 6b.
John Leonard - 05/Feb/07

"The little sod" is a good route. a bit technical untill your on the ledges and shame its not longer but still a good climb. probably 6b.
Lloyd - 11/May/07

New Route: Lup Dup, 6a+? - F.A. Paul Johnson.
This line starts up the arete of Mind Meld to make its 1st clip, then balancy moves left onto
The Sod to make its 2nd clip. Then from the undercut flake (can't miss) slap out left for the ledge on the arete of Little Sod, clip. Finish up the ramp and wall of Little Sod to its belay.
Pee Jay - 27/Jun/07

Lup Dup. Very nice route which easily gets a star in my opinion. The moves involving the undercut flake are really nicely! i reckon 6a+
Lloyd - 30/Jun/07

Good natural line, a bit polished with a tricky start: rising traverse from left is hard but well protected, direct start easier but is further from first clip...
John Parker - 03/Aug/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 139
    hard 6a 0 of 23
    6a 0 of 23
    easy 6a 20 of 23
    hard 5c 1 of 23
    5c 0 of 23
    easy 5c 0 of 23
    hard 5b 0 of 23
    5b 0 of 23
    easy 5b 0 of 23
    hard 5a 2 of 23
    5a 0 of 23
    easy 5a 0 of 23
    3 Stars 2 of 63
    2 Stars 12 of 63
    1 Star 42 of 63
    0 Stars 7 of 63
    Bag of ..... 0 of 63

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.